Valve Cover - Removal/Installation - CBF 1000A DIY

This DIY describes how to remove the valve cover on a 2007 CBF1000A Honda motorcycle and is applicable for 2006 to 2009 models. This is typically done as part of a valve clearance inspection.

Time and Tools

This is not an easy DIY task. It involves quite many individual steps, some of which are a bit triggy and which - if not done with care - may damage components. Especially the high tension spark plug leads, coils and caps are prone to be damaged if handled too hard. A first timer may spend 12 hours or more doing it, an experienced might do it in 4 hours. If you are a beginner in DIY, better have an experienced friend giving a hand.

Tools, spareparts and consumables needed:

Removal Procedure

1.0 Remove seats - details

2.0 Remove upper cowls and inner pannels both sides - details

3.0 Remove lower cowls both sides (if mounted) - details

Remark: The Honda Shop Manual specifies removal of the tank at this point, but it is simpler to just lift it as specified in the following step.

4.0 Lift the tank - details

5.0 Drain the coolant - details

6.0 Ignition coils, high tension cables and spark plug caps.

The pictures below show how components are located. Be sure to place all hoses and cables in the same way when you assemble again.
Engine left side - click for larger image Engine right side - click for larger image
Engine left side - click for larger image

It is possible to remove the ignition system parts without removing PAIR control valve and PAIR hoses, but it is very triggy to do it without pulling the wires hard or bending them sharply with consequent damage to the ignition system. It is much easier to first to loosen all hose and cable connections, unfasten ignition coils and then - when everything is loose, to remove the components one by one, as cable and hose ends become removeable.

Notice: The cylinders and their respective spark plugs are numbered #1, #2, #3 and #4, where #1 is at the far left side of the bike and #4 is on far right side. The ignition coil mounted in the left cowl support frame is for #2 and #3 spark plugs, and the coil mounted on the left side of the frame (under the tank) is for #1 and #4. Be carefull not to interchange the coils as their cable lengths are not identical.

6.1 Using a tusch-pen, mark the ignition coils with their respective spark plug numbers (as described above), so you do not get this wrong during reassembly.

6.2 Remove the two 28 mm long 6 mm bolts and their nuts holding ignition coil #2/#3 to the cowl support frame. Just let the coil lie loose while you continue.
Unfastening ignition coil #2/#3 - click for larger image bolt and nut - click for larger image Waiting for removal - click for larger image

6.3 Disconnect the primary wires on ignition coil #1/#4 and the remove the two 22 mm long 6 mm bolts holding the coil to the mounting bracket on the center frame. Just let the coil lie loose while you continue.
Disconnecting primary wires - click for larger image Removing bolts - click for larger image

7.0 It is now time to remove the cowl support frames from both sides and a coolant hose in order to improve access.
These steps are not strictly required, but they make it a lot easier to get your big hands into the 'battle zone' and to get the valve cover in and out, hence reducing the risc of damageing components.
You may observe from the pictures that I did these things somewhat later in the process, when I realized that it would be a great help.

7.1 Unhook the heat guard rubber from the taps on the cowl support frames in both sides
Unhooking heat guard - click for larger image Click for larger image Heat guard unhooked - click for larger image

7.2 Unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the cowl support frames in each side of the bike
Remowing right cowl support frame - click for larger image

7.3 Remove the coolant hose connecting the thermostat housing with the radiator.
Remowing coolant hose - click for larger image

8.0 You are now ready to disconnect PAIR control valve, hoses, ignition coils, spark plug HT-cables and spark plug caps. You may do it in any order you find best.

8.1 Use a pair of pliers and e.g. the handle of a screw driver to release the spark plug caps. Do not pull in the cables themselves as they may break inside and damage the performance of the ignition system.
Releasing spark plug cap - click for larger image

8.2 Disconnect and remove the crankcase breather hose.
Disconnecting crankcase breather hose - click for larger image Disconnecting crankcase breather hose - click for larger image Removing crankcase breather hose - click for larger image

8.2 Disconnect the PAIR hoses from the valve cover and PAIR control valve rubber mount from tap on frame.
Disconnecting right PAIR hose - click for larger image Disconnecting left PAIR hose - click for larger image PAIR control solenoid released from tap - click for larger image

8.3 The PAIR inlet hose comming from the air cleaner can now be disconnected from the PAIR control valve. You do not need to disconnect it from the air cleaner, just bend it up above the frame bar and let it rest there. Disconnect the electrical 2-pin connector from the PAIR control solenoid. It is pretty difficult to get your fingers in there, but you have to press on the side of the harness connector to get it released. On the center picture below, the connector has been pulled out to the right side of the engine to get a good look at it. Normally it's position is under the frame bar.
Disconnecting PAIR inlet hose - click for larger image 2-pin connector to PAIR control solenoid - click for larger image PAIR control solenoid valve and hoses - click for larger image

8.4 Now everything has been released and you can remove the parts in whatever sequence you find best. Again - be sure not to pull hard in any of the spark plug cables.

8.5 To further improve access to the valve cover, also remove the mounting bracket for ignition coil #1/#4.
Removing bracket - click for larger image

9.0 You have now dismantled enough to remove the valve cover, but before you do this, everything arround and above the valve cover must be cleaned to ensure that no dirt will fall into the interior of the engine. Also - if you have access to presurized air, blow out any dirt that may be lieing in the spark plug holes.
Finally you may tie up some of the cables with a couple of strings. This is shown further below under step number 13.

10.0 Loosen each of the 4 valve cover bolts half a turn, then another half turn for each bolt, and finally remove each bolt.
Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image
Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image Removing valve cover bolt - click for larger image

11.0 While applying some lifting force to the rear left corner of the valve cover, tap gently on the cover side with a plastic hammer to get the gasket to release. Then lift the cover a few centimeters and ease it out towards the right side of the bike. Be carefull not to damage the semi-circles on the rubber gasket.
Clean the edges of the cylinder head, taking care to remove all remenicenses of silicone RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising) gasket. Be carefull not to make scratches in the aluminum, and don't drop any of the silicone stuf into the cylinder head.
Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image

Ready for Valve Clearance Inspection/Adjustment

The top of the engine is now ready for valve clearance inspection or other work in this area.

Installation Procedure

12.0 With the valve cover lieing topside down, remove all traces of silicone RTV gasket from the rubber gasket. Make sure not to drop any of it down into the valve cover. It should not be nescesary to remove the gasket from the valve cover, but if there seems to be traces of RTV gasket on that side, you may want to take the gasket off and clean it. Take your time to do all this right, or you may not be able to make an oil-tight mount of the valve cover.
Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image

13.0 If you have not already done it under step 9, then tie up some of the cables with a couple of strings. This will make it easyer to get the valver cover back on the cylinder head.
Loosening valve cover bolt - click for larger image

14.0 Ease the valve cover in over the cylinder head from the right side and let it rest there while still missing about 20 mm (see the picture below).
Important: The following must be done with correct timing and you will need an assistent.
Within two minutes: Smear a thin layer of silicone RTV gasket on the surfaces of the semi-circles and also apply a drop of silicone RTV gasket on the semi-circle corners at the left end of the cylinder head. Do the same at the right end of the cylinder head (you will have to work from the underside of the valve cover for this).
Wait 3-5 minuets to let the surface of the RTV gasket dry a little. Then - with help from your assistent - lift the valve cover, move it to be alligned correctly with the cylinder head and then simultaneously lower it down into it's final position. Be sure to do this in one downwards move. Do not lift it again, because you might risc breaking the RTV seal you just formed.
Immediately after, insert the 4 valve cover bolts and in a cyclic sequence graduately tighten them to a torqe of 10 Nm (1 kgm, 7 lbfft). Then gently dry off any excess RTV gasket while it is still soft.
Ready to be moved into final position - click for larger image

15.0 The remaining assembly is now just to reverse the dismantling sequence while taking the following into account:

15.1 This is your chance to clean all parts and the engine itself. Smear all hooses, ignition coils and spark plug cables and caps with a thin layer of silicone oil and dry it off again with a cloth. The silicone oil will protect rubber surface from cracking, and it will also prevent moisture build up on ignition system parts, thus preventing false routes for the high voltage currents.
Notice: While we are on this subject: This is what you should do on your car before every winter. And don't forget the rubber arround the car doors either!

15.2 Working your way back to step 8 (included), mount all parts into their respective positions, but do not yet connect any hoose ends or spark plug caps.

15.3 Make sure all hoses and cables are routed correctly as shown on the previous pictures.

15.4 Press down the spark plug caps so that they snap correctly into position. You will find that it requires quite som force (you may even need the help of an assistant) to get them down. Make sure you positively hear several clicks from each cap as it slides down over the end of the spark plug.

15.5 Continue with all the remaining reverse steps 7 to 1. When mounting the primary wires on the ignition coils, be sure to connect them as they were before (collors are shown on the large pictures in steps 6.3 and 6.2, click on the pictures to see them). The ignition will work OK even if you invert the connections, but - depending on the internal design of the ignition coils - it may influence radio frequency emmission.


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Copyright 2009 FireBladerDk - Last updated 2009-08-23